Basic Life Skills for Horses

As a horse owner, have you taken responsibility for your horse’s ability to handle potentially stressful situations? Are you prepared for the inevitable emergency situation? Taking the time to evaluate you and your horse’s ability to handle these situations BEFORE they happen will help ensure better outcomes. Here is a list of basic life skills important for all horses, regardless of age or location!

  1. Basic handling, including catching, haltering , and leading your horse. You should be able to touch your horse’s body and legs and pick up all 4 feet. If you cannot catch your horse, how can your veterinarian examine him? If you never catch your horse, waiting until he is sick or wounded will not make the situation easier. If you cannot touch your horse’s legs or pick his feet, it is unfair to expect he will allow the farrier to do so safely. Remember that consistent handling is key to success and progress!
  2. Temperature- If you own a horse, you need to own a thermometer, know how to use it, and be able to safely take your horse’s temperature.
  3. Oral medications- There is no reason why your horse cannot learn to have his mouth touched and have oral medications administered (including dewormer!) It is highly likely that at some point, you will need to give your horse an oral medication. Your horse may not sip it eagerly from a syringe, but he needs to allow you (and your veterinarian) to administer an oral medication safely- without rearing, striking, running backwards, etc. If this is a weak skill for your horse, check out some of the resource links below for how to help your horse.
  4. Trailer loading- Even if your horse is retired at home, in the event of a fire or other life-threatening emergency, your horse will need to load on a trailer. This is a skill that comes with practice! Waiting until a stressful event forces this scenario is a good way to ensure that your horse does not load safely or in a reasonable amount of time. If you do not own a trailer, it is your responsibility to plan ahead- does a friend or neighbor have a trailer to help you? If your horse does not load reliably, consult with a reputable trainer to help him learn and practice.
  5. Safe behavior for veterinary exams- Your horse might be nervous about your veterinarian administering vaccinations or medications- that’s ok! Let your veterinarian know in advance and be aware of what works best for your horse in these situations- some treats, a twitch, etc- your veterinarian will appreciate the heads up and your respect for their safety. It is not acceptable for your horse to behave dangerously or violently, and such behavior will eventually mean less than ideal outcomes for your horse following illness or injury. Being a rescue is NOT an excuse for dangerous behavior. Consistent practice and de-sensitization training is a worthy investment for you and your horse!

Here are some great resource videos with training and desensitization tips:

  • Dr. Gemma Pearson, demonstration of techniques to make veterinary care less stressful for horses and safer for those involved. This is a long video but worth a watch https://www.youtube.com/watch?app=desktop&v=JI3xjvPPzzI
  • The British Equine Veterinary Association has a helpful Youtube channel “Don’t Break Your Vet” with short videos of densensitization training techniques to help horses stay safe and relaxed for injections, clipping, deworming, exams, and other veterinary procedures.

Saying Goodbye: responsible end-of-life horse stewardship

This is a hard post to write. Euthanasia is very difficult topic, and one that none of us want to think about, but it’s something that we, as horse owners, will all have to deal with at some point. 

Responsible horse stewardship includes making the decision to say goodbye to our equine partners when the time comes. Knowing what to expect, and understanding some of the practicalities of the process, can help us to be prepared to offer our beloved horse companions as pain, and stress-free an exit from this life as we can provide. 

How to make the decision 

“What do you think, Doc?” 

As veterinarians we get asked this question all of the time.  It can pertain to anything from how to deal with a lameness issue, to when it’s “the right time to say goodbye.”  The “when to say goodbye” question is arguably the most difficult we – both as horse owners and as veterinarians – have to face. 

Sometimes it is certainly far more clear cut than others.  Emergencies such a broken leg or a very sick or colicky horse can leave horse owners no choice but to end the suffering. On the other hand, the aging horse which is not holding weight or is limping around on a chronic basis can be a far more difficult and nuanced discussion.

That is the important part though – the discussion. 

It can be a very difficult thing to discuss or even think about, but your veterinarian should be able to guide you through the process so that you and your family can make an educated decision.  Elements such as chronic pain or lameness, weight loss, and inappetence are three common issues which often start the concern that it “might be time.” 

Part of the conversation that I personally have with clients is that often the horse “tells us.”  Their eye may change and become dull. They may start to lack the zest for life which they had years (or even weeks) ago.  They may become disinterested in food, or companionship, or just stand and stare off into the distance as they retreat into themselves. It can be different for different horses, but as the person who knows your horse the best, you will probably recognize it. 

When horses start to have difficulty just being horses, the term “quality of life” comes into play.  Defining that concept can be difficult to pin down, but in the end it is the most important piece of the puzzle. As the stewards for our horses, if the quality of life has significantly changed I believe it is our duty to end their suffering.

 What to Expect

 Your veterinarian should walk you through the practicalities, but generally it is done by your veterinarian with a lethal injection. There is no need to move the horse to a clinic or hospital for the procedure. It can be done where your horse lives, in a familiar and reassuring location. If possible it’s good to conduct the procedure in an area that will be accessible by removal equipment or a backhoe, depending on what you do with the physical remains (we’ll discuss that more below). 

Typically, a sedative is given first via intravenous injection in the neck, to help the horse fall more easily and so the horse doesn’t get distressed as they start to feel sleepy. After this an overdose of an anesthetic type drug is given, stopping the horses’ heart. Sometimes the horse makes involuntary movements, jerking limbs or gasping. Although this can be disconcerting, it is important to remember that the horse is unconscious, and is feeling no pain or distress.

 The drugs take effect very quickly. Your veterinarian will confirm death, and allow you to have some time alone with your horse if you desire.

 How to Deal with Remains

Once a horse has been euthanized with lethal injection, the body is toxic.  It must therefore be dealt with properly. Here in Jefferson County, we have 3 options for the remains: communal burial, plotted burial, and cremation. In all instances an animal removal service is used to transport the body to its final location.  This is often referred to as the “rendering” truck, but nothing does in fact go to the rendering plant.  Communal burial is a mass grave at a non-visitation location. If you feel that you may want to visit a site in the years to follow, there are plotted burial options.  These, and cremation, are significantly more costly, but they are viable options.

Because of their size, there are only a limited number of places which can deal with a horse either for burial or cremation, so planning and discussion of what to do with the remains months or even years before can make the whole process run a little smoother.  Euthanasia discussions are not easy ones to have, but for the sake of our equine companions, they are a necessary one.

How to care for minor wounds

Most horse owners are comfortable treating minor** scrapes and wounds on our ever-accident prone horses. But the myriad of available topical products can be overwhelming – what is best to use and when?

**As always, if you have ANY concern over the depth of the wound, if it’s a grossly contaminated wound, a wound near a joint, a puncture, or there’s a potential need for sutures, ALWAYS check with your veterinarian BEFORE applying any topical product.**

What is ‘Minor’?

First, let’s review what can be considered a minor scrape or wound. Most superficial wounds over areas of dense muscle (such as side of shoulder) or far from joints/tendon sheath/other sensitive areas (such as scrape over front of cannon bone) and only partially breaking the skin can be doctored at home.

Avoid application of caustic or potentially painful options, such as alcohol and hydrogen peroxide- these can be damaging to exposed tissue. Look for products that contain a list of ingredients- if you don’t know what’s in it, why would you apply it to your horse?

Superficial Wounds

For superficial abrasions and areas that cannot easily be bandaged, a liquid bandage product such as Alushield or Aluspray is a great option. In its aerosol form, it is easy to apply, allows necessary airflow to promote healing, and protects against wound irritants.

bandage on the leg of horse

Bandaged Wounds

For wounds that are protected with a bandage, the ideal topical product depends on the stage of wound healing. Large fresh wounds that tend to leak large amounts of fluid will not benefit from an ointment- they are too wet (and should be evaluated by your vet!) Less exudative bandaged wounds can benefit from topicals such as Neosporin (triple antibiotic), silver sulfadiazine (SSD), or manuka/medical grade honey. All of these options have anti-microbial properties and preserve a moist healing environment while promoting epithelialization of the wound.

Dealing with Granulation (proud flesh)

In later stages of wound healing, horses commonly produce excessive granulation tissue, also known as proud flesh. Proud flesh can be identified by its appearance as lumpy red tissue that may bulge over the margins of the wound and bleeds very easily.

Proud flesh is especially common on slow healing wounds of the lower limbs that require prolonged bandaging. The good news is that while it has impressive blood flow, proud flesh lacks sensation, allowing your veterinarian to debride and flatten this extra tissue if needed. A combination antibiotic and steroid ointment such as Panalog is often used over proud flesh to help smooth out the granulation tissue so that the wound can continue to contract and heal. Once the granulation tissue is flat and healthy, it is not necessary to apply panalog. Some wounds alternate between proud and healthy granulation tissue during the healing process, so we may alternate applications of panalog or manuka honey depending on how the wound looks at each bandage change.

Ensure your first aid kit is well stocked with a thermometer, clean bandaging material, and a few of the topicals previously mentioned. When you discover a wound on your horse, take a minute to assess its location and depth. And if in doubt, a phone call and photo to your vet is always a good idea to determine best treatment and optimum healing.

Street Nails – Call your vet immediately

No matter how safe their environment may be, horses will always manage to find trouble. Unfortunately, a not-so-uncommon equine emergency is a sharp object that has penetrated through the bottom of the hoof, also known as a street nail. Any penetrating injury to the bottom of your horse’s foot is an emergency, and timely assessment is essential for the best outcome.

The number one rule for the horse owner is NEVER REMOVE THE NAIL before talking with your veterinarian! The exact location of the nail is crucial for determining the best treatment for your horse. ALWAYS call your vet first! Sometimes a photo can help your vet offer the best advice before evaluation.

Nail prior to removal

In general, foreign objects to the back third of the foot present the highest risk because of the position of important structures and the consequences of infection.

Nail Prior to Removal

Your vet will take radiographs of your horse’s foot prior to removal of the nail to determine its exact location. If the nail has been removed or fallen out, special dye can be injected along its tract that will show up on the radiographs, but it is more informative to leave the nail in place if possible! If the nail falls out prior to evaluation, save it and mark the depth of its tract if possible.

Dye injected along nail tract

The next step is beginning treatment, depending on the location of the nail. If the nail is well embedded, temporary numbing of the horse’s foot enables non-painful removal. The nail tract will then be flushed to remove dirt and debris. A bandage, sometimes including a drawing poultice, is applied to ensure the tract remains clean during healing. Sometimes a hoof abscess can develop during healing. Depending on the nail location, a technique called a regional limb perfusion may also be used.

Performed on the sedated horse, a regional limb perfusion involves the placement of a tourniquet on the limb above the hoof, allowing for antibiotic injection into a vein below the tourniquet. The tourniquet is left in place for up to 30 minutes to allow a higher concentration of antibiotic in the limb below the tourniquet.

If the location of the nail is in a critical location, such as through the center of the frog or potentially involving the tendon sheath or navicular bursa, prompt surgical flushing at a referral hospital is the best treatment to minimize the risk of fatal or career-ending infection.

Timely treatment of any penetrating wound to the foot is imperative for the best outcome!

How does the smoky air affect my horse?

While the current wildfires are at some distance from us, we have not been spared from widespread smoke and poor air quality over the last few weeks. Just as poor air quality can be an irritant for us, it can also affect your horse. Unhealthy air contains irritants that can affect our eyes and nasal passages and may have a greater impact on those – both human and equine – with pre-existing respiratory conditions.

Smoke is composed of carbon monoxide, carbon dioxide, soot, nitrogen oxide, particulates, and trace minerals, as well as the primary source being burned (wood, vegetation, plastic, etc). The smoke from wildfires is high in particulate matter, which is problematic because of its extremely small size. Particulate matter easily travels to the smallest airways of the lungs, causing irritation and damage. For humans and horses, it can cause coughing, nasal discharge, and increased respiratory effort. It can also interfere with the normal defense mechanisms of the respiratory tract, decreasing immune function and the ability of the lungs to clear routinely encountered foreign materials. Horses with pre-existing respiratory conditions, such as heaves and allergies, are more sensitive to poor air quality.

How do I know if it’s safe for my horse to work?

The Air Quality Index (AQI) is the Environmental Protection Agency’s daily grade of air quality. The AQI accounts for five major pollutants: ground-level ozone, particle pollution (particulate matter), carbon monoxide, sulfur dioxide, and nitrogen dioxide. Air rated as “good” has an AQI <50. Today, August 17, 2020, Golden has an AQI of 57 (moderate), stating that air quality is acceptable, although there may be a risk for those who are more sensitive to air pollution.

Although there are currently no recommendations specifically for horses based on AQI, there are guidelines available for human athletes. The guidelines suggest removing sensitive human athletes from outdoor competition when AQI is >100 and removing all athletes from outdoor competition when AQI > 200.

What can you do to help your horse?

Be conscious of the air quality index and conditions. Go to https://www.airnow.gov/aqi/ to find the AQI in your area.

Limit exercise when smoke is visible.

Ensure adequate clean water is always available to your horse.

Limit exposure to additional dust- consider soaking hay prior to feeding.

Seek veterinary attention if your horse is showing any signs of respiratory difficulty or distress.

Disaster Preparedness: Are you ready?

With the recent fire in Evergreen, residents of the Colorado Front range have received a stark reminder of the reality of living in a fire zone.  Even those residents on the eastern plains of Colorado are under a possible fire threat this time of year.  When you live in an area which is under a fire threat, a disaster/evacuation plan can mean the difference between getting out safely, and not getting out at all.

Disaster plans, including fire evacuation plans, should be well- thought out, and practiced so that they can be smoothly executed under stress and fear of a real disaster.  Here are some thoughts and tips to keep in mind as you create a disaster plan. 

Trailer Loading:  Possibly the single most important aspect to any evacuation plan is trailer loading.  Assure that your horses will load easily and quickly in ANY trailer.  If you have been caught away from home and someone else is evacuating your animals for you, they may not be using your trailer.  If not, will your horse load into a stock trailer? a small dark 2 horse?  Practice is the only way to truly know the answers to these important questions.

Identification:  The ability to identify your horse is extremely important.  They will likely be housed at an evacuation facility with many other animals, and they may have been brought in and checked in by someone other than you or a family member.   Making sure that you have photos of you with your horse, photos of identifying marks, brands, scars or tattoos is extremely helpful in making sure they are identified correctly.  Also, in today’s digital age, be sure to have a photo of brand card, current coggins, and microchip paperwork. ( As a note, you should never keep these papers with your horse as it makes it easy for thieves to “claim” your animals!)   In an emergency, duct tape on their neck, with names and phone number in sharpie works well.  If your horse is being hauled with a halter, dog tags on the halter can help as well.  IF you have to leave your horse behind, NEVER turn them loose while they are wearing a halter!!

First Aid Kit:  Have a basic first aid kit that can be used in emergencies like colic, wound care, hoof/foot injuries in an easily accessible location that you can grab and go!  If you need help with building a first aid kit, please reach out to your veterinarian for advice and proper supplies.  Consult with your veterinarian to include basic medications such as Phenylbutazone (Bute) or Flunixin Meglumine (Banamine) pastes.

Tack:  Plan on which tack you will take in an emergency, including halters, leads and water buckets.  Redundancy may only cause clutter, frustration and confusion in a crisis.  If there is ANY chance that you may trailer horses past fire, do not use nylon tack as it can melt and burn in extreme heat. 

Have Redundant Back Up Plans:  Use the help of neighbors and/or friends to get your horse out in case you are at work, on vacation, or otherwise not around when a fire starts.  Have at least two other people who can come by with a trailer to load and evacuate your horses.  Post detailed instructions in the barn area regarding where everything is so that backup helpers or emergency workers can quickly grab and go!

Feed:  Keep a three-day supply of hay, feed, supplements, and medications ready to go.

Know your boarding stables’ emergency procedures:  Knowing this information will make you an asset during an evacuation procedure, rather than a problem.  

Shelter in Place:  We have all become way too familiar with this term!!!  This is a case where you are not able to get your horses out, and need to have a plan for them to shelter in place.  NEVER leave them in a barn.  They should shelter in a pasture where all vegetation has been removed with at least a 4-day supply of food and water.  All horses should be properly identified and should not wear any halter.   Halters on turned out horses can and do get caught and cause more problems than they solve. 

Wildfires start unexpectedly and can move astonishingly quickly.  The Elephant Butte Fire in Evergreen is a reminder of just how many people can be quickly affected by these catastrophes.  The faster you can get yourself, your family, and your animals out of the way of a fire, the more the fire fighters can focus on the fire instead of worrying over human, animal and live saving issues!